Gibbon’s Old Garden in Lausanne

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Hotel Gibbon (1839-1920), Lausanne

“After laying down my pen I took several turns in a berceau, or covered walk of acacias, which commands a prospect of the country, the lake, and the mountains. The air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon was reflected from the waters, and all nature was silent. I will not dissemble the first emotions of joy on recovery of my freedom, and, perhaps, the establishment of my fame. But my pride was soon humbled, and a sober melancholy was spread over my mind, by the idea that I had taken an everlasting leave of an old and agreeable companion. . . .”

That’s how Edward Gibbon describes finishing his big book in Lausanne in 1793, The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. He had been working on it for ten years, and in 1794 he died. In six volumes, it does what it says on the packet. ‘It was fine until the barbarians came,’ might be his argument for how things fell apart for the Romans. That thesis still seems to be in the air and empires that have come and gone since the Romans have made ample use of the barbarians at the gates.

A Limited Editions Club set of Gibbon’s classic, with arresting spine design created by Clarence P. Hornung.

I have to confess I haven’t read Gibbon’s big book. It’s on a bucket list. But I’ve been re-reading Thomas Hardy, who visited Lausanne in June 1897 and stayed at the Hotel Gibbon, like many literary pilgrims before him. The hotel, demolished in 1920, was built on the site of Gibbon’s old house and sloping garden with its acacia trees. Hardy walked in the garden in the evening and realised it was a hundred and ten years to the day, to the hour, since Gibbon’s walk the night he finished his magnum opus. This sparked a fine poem about achievement and truth – “How fares the truth now? – Ill?” The question, of course, remains vexed in our own time. Here’s the poem in its entirety:

Lausanne, In Gibbon’s Old Garden: 11-12 p.m.

by Thomas Hardy

(The 110th anniversary of the completion of the “Decline and Fall” at the same hour and place)

A spirit seems to pass,
Formal in pose, but grave and grand withal:
He contemplates a volume stout and tall,
And far lamps fleck him through the thin acacias.

Anon the book is closed,
With “It is finished!” And at the alley’s end
He turns, and soon on me his glances bend;
And, as from earth, comes speech–small, muted, yet composed.

“How fares the Truth now?–Ill?
–Do pens but slily further her advance?
May one not speed her but in phrase askance?
Do scribes aver the Comic to be Reverend still?

“Still rule those minds on earth
At whom sage Milton’s wormwood words were hurled:
‘Truth like a bastard comes into the world
Never without ill-fame to him who gives her birth’?”

It’s an intimate conversation between Hardy and Gibbon about truth speaking to power, with Milton entering stage right holding a thunderbolt: “Truth like a bastard comes into the world…”. By 1897 Hardy had completed his novels Tess of the d’Urbervilles and Jude the Obscure and taken flak defending the bastards. Gibbon had let fly at all three monotheistic religions and been hauled up in the court of opinion. Milton, the creator of God and Satan, by any measure larger-than-life characters, knew a thing or two about speaking truth to power. Fake news mewling from the White House gets drowned out in such company. Hardy seems to be saying that “from earth, comes speech – small, muted, yet composed.”

Plaque at the former location of Edward Gibbon’s house in Lausanne

It was an accident of education that brought Gibbon to Lausanne. After a fraught year at Magdalen College, Oxford, the sixteen year-old convert to Catholicism was sent to lodge with Daniel Pavillard, a Reformed minister in Lausanne, who was supposed to sort him out. Daddy threatened to cut him off without pocket money if he didn’t leave the Scarlet Woman of Rome. Gibbon spent five formative years in Switzerland. A second stay in Lausanne many years later, from September 1783 to August 1787, sealed his connection to the city. His old friend from teenage years, Jacques Georges Deyverdun, the French translator of Goethe, died in 1789, and willed Gibbon his home in Lausanne, La Grotte, demolished in 1896.

Ground plan of the location of the Maison de la Grotte in relation to the Gibbon Hotel.

Charles Dickens spent six months in Lausanne in 1846, working on a Christmas book and on the early chapters of his novel Dombey and Son. “I never saw so many booksellers’ shops crammed within the same space, as in the steep up-and-down streets of Lausanne,” he wrote his friend and biographer John Forster. He stayed a couple of days at the Gibbon Hotel with his wife, his children, four maids and a dog.

Rosemont, where Dickens stayed for six months in Lausanne.

Dickens considered renting the Villa l’Elysée where today there is a photography museum.  But he opted for a smallish house called Rosemont for ten pounds a month. “It is beautifully situated on the hill that rises from the lake, within ten minutes walk of this hotel, and furnished, though scantily as all here are, better than others … my little study is upstairs, and looks out, from two French windows opening into a balcony, on the lake and mountains…” At the end of a month he had the first four chapters of Dombey and Son ready to show.

The Villa Rosemont as it was in Dickens’ day is no longer standing but a pink stucco building on the corner of Avenue Charles-Dickens and Avenue Auguste-Tissot appears to be where it was located. It may have been a girls’ school for a while during the last couple of decades of the nineteenth century, reminiscent of Muriel Spark’s Finishing School, also set in the area.

Perhaps the fate of Dickens’ Rosemont in Lausanne: French, the ‘ornamental arts’, lawn tennis, a spot of gym and a cold shower.

Dickens was a walker, regularly going out along the vineyard paths towards Lavaux for his evening constitutional. In a later novel, Little Dorrit, he moves the narrative to an ascent of the St. Bernard Pass. In a letter to his biographer John Forster he describes the pass:

I wish to God you could see that place. A great hollow on the top of a range of dreadful mountains, fenced in by riven rocks of every shape and colour: and in the midst, a black lake, with phantom clouds perpetually stalking over it. Peaks, and points, and plains of eternal ice and snow, bounding the view, and shutting out the world on every side: the lake reflecting nothing: and no human figure in the scene.

Dickens goes on to describe the mortuary of the hospice, which had been functioning on the pass since the fifteenth century:

The mortuary was an outhouse beside the convent full of those who crossing the pass, the unclaimed presented as they were found in the snow. They were not laid down, or stretched out, but standing up, in corners and against walls; some erect and horribly human, with distinct expressions on the faces; some sunk down on their knees; some dropping over on one side; some tumbled down altogether, and presenting a heap of skulls and fibrous dust. There is no other decay in that atmosphere; and there they remain during the short days and the long nights, the only human company out of doors, withering away by grains, and holding ghastly possession of the mountain where they died.

From Paris, in November 1846, Dickens had this to say about the Swiss: “Don’t be hard upon the Swiss. They are a thorn in the sides of European despots, and a good wholesome people to live near Jesuit-ridden kings on the brighter side of the mountains. My hat shall ever be ready to be thrown up, and my glove ever ready to be thrown down for Switzerland.”

Hotel Gibbon, lithograph from 1860, giving an idea of the splendid terraced gardens from the Place St. François down to the lake, with Maison La Grotte visible on the immediate right.

 

Left, La Maison de la Grotte where Gibbon lived, right the Convent of St. Francois, photo 1894.

 

La Grotte, formerly the Deyverdun home, where Gibbon lived from 1783 to 1793 (demolished 1896).

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Balthus at the Beyeler

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It takes a bit of chutzpah to present a retrospective exhibition of Balthus’ controversial work at the time of the #Metoo movement and following a failed campaign in 2017 to have his painting Thérèse Dreaming removed from the Met. in New York. But the Beyeler in Basel has no qualms and has risen above the fray. There is even a Balthus Family Day, with guided tour, interactive events, tableaux vivants, children and young people admitted free. The shop sells Balthus placemats and screen cleaners printed with Thérèse Dreaming. The show goes on.

There have always been philistines of course. We live at a time of backstabbing in the senate, poisonings and dismemberings in the diplomatic missions, charlatans and crooks in the highest corridors of power and Facebook in the Forum. So it is no surprise that the moralists are once again trying to sanitise painting. It’s an easy target in the current culture wars: first they come for the immigrants, then they come for the degenerate art. On American art, the writer John Updike was of the opinion that “Puritanism continues to shape our collective aesthetic sensibility… There is an American tendency to see art as a spiritual feat, a moment of amazing grace.” The outcome of the petition instigated by Mia Merrill, ultimately garnering 12,000 signatures, is that the Met has stuck to its values and is having none of it.

This is my third Balthus exhibition, so I feel I know a thing or two about his life and work. I was bowled over in the Centre Pompidou, back in 1983, by the large-scale retrospective that subsequently travelled to New York. There was a careful summing-up at the under-estimated Fondation Pierre Gianadda in 2008 in Martigny, co-curated by Jean Claire, former director of the Picasso Museum in Paris, seven years after Balthus’ death. The current Beyeler show is more like a greatest hits, with forty major canvases, many of them masterpieces, spanning the artist’s long career.

Thérèse (1938) by Balthus. Metropolitan Museum of Art New York.© 2018 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

Balthasar Klossowski was born in 1908 to a Polish painter, art historian and collector resident in Paris, and his wife, Elizabeth, née Spiro. She was a Polish Jew, daughter of a cantor, and became the lover of the Bohemian-Austrian writer Rainer Maria Rilke. Balthazar had an older brother, Pierre. The mother went by the name of Baladine. The boys looked up to Rilke as mentor and father substitute. It was an artists-in-the-house sort of upbringing, with the great names of the French literary and artistic world – Valéry, Gide, Bonnard – around the hearth, on the shelves and hanging from the walls. High Bohemia, then, with a Scottish nanny. Baladine settled in Switzerland with her poet friend, and the boys shuttled back and forth between Geneva and Paris on the train.

Balthazar and Pierre Klossowski, Paris, circa 1913 © Fonds Balthus

Pierre Klossowski, who became André Gide’s secretary at age eighteen and helped him with the drafts of Les faux-monnayeurs, developed into a writer and artist every bit as controversial and sexually-obsessive as his more famous brother Baltusz, as it was spelled at the time. Pierre was a lifelong devotee of the work of the Marquis de Sade – and sadomasochistic scenes, the need to control for sexual and aesthetic purposes, recur in Balthus’ work as well.

Rainer Maria Rilke, the young Balthus, his mother Baladine, Beatenberg, Switzerland, 1922© Fonds Balthus

In later decades Balthus would develop what the New York Times calls a “romantic counter identity” which surely must rival Kellyanne Conway’s “alternative facts” as fudge of the century. Balthus airbrushed out his mother’s Jewish origins. He gave himself the title of Count de Rolle. At one point he claimed descent from Byron (that Scottish nanny) and the Gordons of Scotland. Polish royalty got mixed in for good measure. All lies, or fake news or whatever you want to call it. No substance. No evidence. But it does point to a willingness to change facts to fit an idea of himself. The unhinged never imagine themselves as Joe Soap: it’s always Napoleon or Alexander the Great. The urge to aggrandise, the Byronic cast, nonetheless, tells us a lot about the artist’s method – to turn base metal into gold – but also perhaps something about his approach to sexuality. Balthus was the kind of controlling pre-internet fantasist who might have believed his own schtick.

Invitation card to Balthus’ first solo exhibition in Paris, 1934

He was a quiet provocateur. His first solo show at age 26 in 1934 in the Galerie Pierre (Matisse, son of Henri) in Paris excited controversy. Exhibiting just seven canvases, none of which sold, Balthus felt his work had been wrongly roped in with the surrealists, in vogue at the time. The principal source of controversy was La leçon de guitare (1934), now in the private collection of the Niarchos shipping family and not seen publicly since 1977. It depicts a girl with arched back in the lap of her female teacher, whose hands appear to play the girl as though playing the guitar: one near her exposed crotch, another grasping her hair. Perhaps now is not the time to dust it off. The subject matter takes down the pegs on a long tradition of music lessons depicted as seduction scenes. The composition also blasphemously parodies a deposition from the cross, Pietà de Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, from circa 1455. Throughout his career Balthus liked to dress his girls – when he dressed them – in high-falutin’ clothes. As recently as 2001 the New York Times refused to reproduce the offending canvas which art critic Robert Hughes called “one of the few masterpieces among erotic paintings by Western artists in the last fifty years.”

Study for La leçon de guitare, 1934

The Beyeler shows a number of canvases from that first 1934 exhibition. Two are of the Luxembourg Gardens (he was clearly an habitué of that Parisian playground) and one other street scene, in the Place de l’Odéon. They reveal motifs and idiosyncrasies that are to remain in the artist’s work throughout his career. We have a baker’s boy in white apron carrying a tray of bread on his head – he makes a further appearance in La Rue from 1933. Recurring also is a man with a ladder. In Le Jardin du Luxembourg from 1928, a youth in an Eton collar with a tennis racquet and a beret with a red pom-pom. A small girl strains to pick up a tennis ball. Balthus is learning to manipulate mystery, raising more questions than he answers, as his confidence and technique mature.

Balthus, Place de l’Odéon, 1928, private collection Paris

I particularly like this painting of the Place de l’Odéon because I sat often at that café terrace in the late Seventies and early Eighties. My agent at the time, Mary Kling, had her office, La nouvelle agence, up the street a bit towards the Luxembourg Gardens and I used to present myself with my paltry typewritten juvenilia, hoping she might offload them somewhere, anywhere… My nickname for her was “Kling-a-Ling” because of all those non-sequitur phone calls from the basements of cafés and streetside kiosks.

Balthus, La Rue, 1933, MOMA, James Thrall Soby Bequest

La Rue, from 1933, is the first of Balthus’ masterpieces. There are six different types of hat on the nine figures in the street, promenading with all the deliberation of actors coming on stage. The street depicted is rue de Bourbon-le-Château, near which Balthus had a studio in the Cour de Rohan, in the heart of Paris’s 6th arrondissement. Balthus exaggerates the hats to create effects, blurs and foreshortens footwear. His figures are remarkably consistent in footwear, wearing similar slippers, espadrilles or ballet shoes over seven decades of painting life. (In a later LIFE magazine feature the artist and his young model are photographed in red leather babouche slippers.) He liked to manipulate his sitters, to flatten a head, distort a shoulder, thicken an ankle, according to the necessities of his aesthetic. They appear isolated, mannequin-like, automatons in his service. Clearly, Balthus has been looking at Seurat’s way of freezing time in a moment, framing the circus.

The dwarfish girl with bat and ball reappears. Another girl, in white ankle socks and little red top, is being assaulted by a youth wearing red spats. A striking cap sits on a woman with her back to the viewer, her jerkin trimmed with red. The peculiarly adult child carried by a nursemaid has another red pom-pom on his beret, so flattened it looks like a mortar board. His mother or nursemaid has an elaborate chignon, a green and beige scarf. She too is facing away from us – a mystery figure. The play of pattern between costume and street – a striped awning, a fragment of a huissier de justice sign, a gas lamp, an electric lamp – all underscore the theatricality of the scene. But what does it all mean?

Rue de Bourbon-le-Château, Paris VI

The Thérèse paintings –  about eleven of them executed over the period 1935-1939 – show Thérèse Blanchard, the daughter of Balthus’ neighbour in Paris. One of the earliest, a canvas that once belonging to Picasso, shows her with her younger brother Hubert. The two children are stiffly posed, the drawing girl on the floor more mannequin-like than her brother. She is all angles and lines, her limbs somewhat detachable, her head swivelled peculiarly, like a doll’s. Balthus had earlier used this composition in a series of illustrations for Heathcliff and Cathy in Wuthering Heights. The Thérèse paintings capture shifting puberty,  a sullen porcelain quality to the sitter but also the artist’s own obsession: he wants to aestheticise what’s fleeting in her.

Les enfants Hubert et Thérèse Blanchard, 1937, Picasso Museum in Paris

Art critic, curator and Balthus specialist at the Met., Sabine Rewald, describes Thérèse as “young yet knowing, vulnerable yet tough.” Thérèse Dreaming (1937) has crossed the Atlantic from New York to show her knickers in the Basel show: the Met. are probably quite happy to get her out of the house for a breath of bracing Swiss air while the petition against her dies down. Rewald wrote in the Metropolitan Museum Journal of 1998: “The picture presents a haunting description of that stage in life that veers between lassitude and exuberance, innocence and sexual fantasies, reality and dream”.

Thérèse Dreaming, 1938, by Balthus, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection, 1998

Balthus plays off a strict, classicising composition against the eroticising pose; as Alan Bennet puts it in a different context in The Habit of Art: “all that counterfeit classical luggage” seems ornament to cornered desire. Balthus has managed to show “intuition into his young model’s psyche with an overt erotic desire”. This discrepancy between a disturbing content and a classic form is far from new in art (Chronos and cannibalism, anybody? Leda and the Swan?) but the persistence of figures, poses and clothing over many decades points to an obsession. The artist’s only recorded comment on this particular Thérèse painting has a dissembling grain of truth but seems disingenuous nonetheless:

Everyone is excited because you can see the little girls’ underpants. . . . The problem is the viewer’s longings and interests, not mine.”

Detail from Living Room, 1943, by Balthus, Minneapolis Institute of Art, ©Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris

Balthus courted and eventually married in 1937 Antoinette de Watteville, a Swiss of aristocratic family.  They first met when she was twelve in 1924. They had two sons. Laurence Bataille, daughter of French writer George Bataille and actress Sylvia Bataille, became Balthus’ mistress at age sixteen, when he was thirty-eight. He took up with Frederique Tison, his step-niece, when she was sixteen. Balthus didn’t just sublimate his desires in his paintings, he was active in pursuing girls and using them as his models. A more moralistic, age-aware and information-savvy time like ours can look through these liaisons and seductions and see the power dynamics behind them.

Laurence Bataille, age 4, in Bourg d’Oisons. Photo © Denise Bellon.

Balthus with his step-niece Frederique Tison, in Chateau de Chassy, 1956. Note the red leather babouche slippers.

French writer André Malraux and Balthus met for the first time in 1946 in the Restaurant du Nord in Geneva, where Malraux was giving a talk. They had in common a passion for Chinese and Japanese art and a fascination with cats.

Tom Campbell, Director of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and Sabine Rewald, curator, with Balthus’ King of Cats, 1935, between them in 2014. © Jill Krementz

Balthus had styled himself “King of Cats” since a 1935 self-portrait. His first publication, at Rilke’s instigation, when Balthus was twelve, was Mitsou, an illustrated tale about a lost stray cat. A retrospective exhibition focusing on this feline connection, Balthus: Cats and Girls, curated by the world’s foremost authority on the artist, Sabine Rewald, showed at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2014 without a purr.

Ink drawings by Balthus for Mitsou, his first publication in 1921

Appreciation for Japanese woodcuts dated back to Balthus’ childhood on the Rue Boissonade in Paris. At fourteen, he had been painting Chinese lanterns and Rilke describes his “assured knowledge of Chinese Imperial and artistic dynasties”. In 1946 Balthus continued the conversation with Malraux the following day at the Villa Diodati outside Geneva (of Byron fame), where the artist was living. The friendship between Malraux and the artist lasted thirty years.

The Turkish room at the Villa Medici, Rome

It was Malraux who saw to it that Balthus got the position of Director of the French Academy in Rome, a six-year sinecure which he stretched to sixteen. Balthus was always fond of a nice house, and lived in a succession of grand residences throughout his life: the Villa Diodati, the Château de Chassy in the Morvan, the Grand Chalet at Rossinière in Switzerland. The Villa Médicis in Rome, where the French Academy is housed, needed restoration and Balthus devoted time and energy to the task. In 1966 Malraux, in his capacity as Minister of State in charge of Cultural Affairs, inaugurated the restoration work.

Balthus’ painting La chambre turque (1965-66) on the French 4 franc stamp, issued in 1982

The two men visited Japan in 1962. Malraux was in search of works for an exhibition of Japanese art at the Petit Palais, interested mostly in Zenga, calligraphy and ink paintings, particularly those of Tomioka Tessaï, whose work Balthus equated with Cezanne’s. During this visit, Balthus met Setsuko Ideta, a student of French at Tokyo’s Jesuit Sophia University. Balthus told the twenty-year-old student he was 50 (he was 54). She became his second wife in 1967.

We talked and talked. Balthus knew so deeply about Japan, much more than me. He had a longing for Oriental culture. [French author André] Gide, who was a family friend, had taken him to see Japanese Noh theatre. [Balthus] adores all things Japanese. It’s he who made me put on the kimono – yes! It was his artistic view. He said the Japanese woman is made to wear a kimono.

Balthus and Setsuko had a son, Fumio, who died of a rare genetic disorder, Tay-Sachs disease, at age two and a half. A daughter, Harumi, born in 1973, works as a jewellery designer for Chopard and Boucheron.

Passage du Commerce-Saint-André, 1952–1954, by Balthus, Fondation Beyeler

Some viewers laugh when they see Balthus’ distorted figures, his little scurrying dolls. We recognise them as types while acknowledging their disturbance. In the later Passage du Commerce St. André, 1952-53, the figures seem to be telling us something about life’s passage, its ironies and despairs. It’s another large, theatrical canvas, like walking into a play rehearsal and standing at the footlights when the director shouts freeze. The resulting tableau vivant has a man carrying a baguette with his back to us, an old woman walking off-scene into the wings, a dumpy girl musing straight at us, holding her chin. On the grimy, grey Parisian wall behind there’s an advertisement for a locksmith’s with an arrow beneath it pointing the way out of the frame. It teases, one of a number of question marks this masterpiece sets up.

Detail from Passage du Commerce-Saint-André, 1952-1954, Fondation Beyeler

But the real development in these later paintings from the 1950s is in technique, in brushwork. Like Beckett and Giacometti, Balthus takes his obsessions and refines them, honing them to essentials. His brushwork is a stippling impasto, applied, scraped and over-painted until it has the luminosity of Chardin. He prepared his own colours from powder and liked to turn the fluidity of oil into a kind of mortar, working its thickness. Terre de Cassel was a favourite, giving a rich gold hue, the “gold of Velasquez”. He used casein tempera to get a chalky quick-drying effect and a resin called Caparol, mixing colour into a “wax milk” or a treatment he called “la sauce François”. The resulting roughness of paint gives the impression of fresco-work, moving Balthus’ effect closer to that of his long-held ideal artists: Masaccio, Piero della Francesca and Fra Angelico. The matt greys, browns, muted greens and reds of Passage du Commerce St. André play on a chromatic scale.

Detail from Passage du Commerce-Saint-André, 1952-1954, Fondation Beyeler

As the brushwork becomes broader, more textured, the subject matter becomes a matter of light falling on planes of colour, geometrically arranged. The subjects had been developed early. Like the angels, virgins, saints and drapery of devotional art, his figures are givens. The canvases make gestures towards a story about life, desire, voyeurism, perversion – girls, dolls, old age – but the viewer may as well ask why angels have wings.

Paysage de Champrovent, 1941 – 1943/45, by Balthus

Balthus is an underestimated landscape painter: the girls steal the show. He captures the mountainous landscape of the Jura and the Savoy, in all its agricultural golds and greens, often in Autumn when the trees are skeletal and the fields gleaned, marked by sharp blue shadow. Like his interiors, the landscape is manicured, in the manner of Poussin’s Classical scenes. In the Paysage de Champrovent above, the dumpy reclining figure seems an afterthought, uncomfortable despite the sun hat, not quite anatomically correct.

In his eighties and nineties, with sight failing, Balthus relied on his wife Setsuko (“the Countess”) to prepare the colours from powder. He took Polaroid snaps of sitters because he couldn’t quite see them well enough in the flesh. A selection from nearly 2,000 snaps of a girl model called Anna Wahli has seen the light of day and they were exhibited at the Gagosian Gallery in New York and Geneva. The youngest daughter of Balthus’ doctor, Anna is interviewed here as an adult about her experience of posing for the master between the ages of eight and sixteen. “Old age had stiffened his hands and he found it difficult to do preparatory sketches.” She posed on Wednesday afternoons when she had a half day off school. In taking the road to photography Balthus joins Lewis Carroll as a photographer of young girls.

Balthus untitled, c. 1990-2000. ©Harumi Klossowska de Rola. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery

His final residence was Le Grand Chalet at Rossinière, built in 1754, the largest chalet in Switzerland, nestled in the Pays d’Enhaut. For many years it had been a grand hotel whose guests included Victor Hugo and Alfred Dreyfuss. In Balthus’ day there were two Filipino manservants, Leonardo and Virgilio. He liked theatricality and the provocative streak was there to the end. In later photographs he often poses in full dress Japanese regalia – kimono and walking stick. The Rola arms of his putative Polish ancestry were embroidered onto many of his kimono, in the style of Japanese kamon.

Balthus with model Cybele, 1993, at Le Grand Chalet.

At the Beyeler there’s a little side altar of the exhibition – interactive – where you can respond to statements tacked up on postcards, quotations from Balthus himself. Some of the elderly matrons were cackling at the comments. There was a quote from the artist’s recent critic, Mia Merrill, the instigator of the Met. petition: “The artist of this painting, Balthus, had a noted infatuation with pubescent girls, and it can be strongly argued that this painting romanticises the sexualization of a child.” Merrill is no ignoramus but a former art history student at New York University and an advocate of feminist causes. From the perspective of this wonderful show at the Beyler, the accusation of “romanticising the sexualization of a child” might gain some traction but nonetheless stems from a Puritan legacy, the need to have morally improving art.

Balthus and David Bowie, interviewing the artist for Modern Painters magazine, 1994.

David Bowie was one of many celebrities and fellow artists who visited Balthus as an old man. They were near neighbours in Switzerland and Bowie was on the editorial board of Modern Painters magazine.

Balthus puts down his knife and fork and, staring at some far off point, says quietly:  ‘I awoke very early this morning. I went to my studio and started work. It would not come…. and I gazed at my painting then the small things around me and I felt such a tremendous…sense of awe.’” His voice dies away, leaving “a misty trail of remembrances, glories and maybe disappointments… Locked in silence, we three sit, Balthus, Setsuko and I. The tragedy and chaos of the twentieth century rushes through the memory of its last Legendary Painter.

The Dalai Lama and Tony Curtis visited too. Bono sang for some 350 mourners, including French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson and the Aga Khan, at Balthus’ funeral in 2001. The artist is buried beside a little chapel not far from Le Grand Chalet, and beside his son Fumio.

Meanwhile, the Klossowski family continues its climb up the aristocratic ladder. Prince Stanislas Klossowski De Rola, Baron de Watteville, commonly known to his friends as Stash, is Balthus’ son by his first marriage to Antoinette de Watteville. He was infamously busted for drugs possession (the Courtfield Road bust) with the Rolling Stones’ Brian Jones in 1967. At one time he was considered for the tv band The Monkees but bowed out of the auditions as being beneath his dignity.

Prince Stanislas Klossowski De Rola, Baron De Watteville, otherwise known as Stash, photographed in 1965.

 

 

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The extraordinary travels of Ella Maillart

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Ella Maillart’s Leica, from the documentary Les voyages extraordinaires d’Ella Maillart

Swiss traveller Ella Maillart was born in 1903 in Geneva of a Danish mother and a Swiss furrier father. Attractive, sporty, outdoorsy, she loved to be on the lake, especially with her childhood friend Hermine de Saussure. “Bobbed chestnut hair with a fairer lock in front, clear grey eyes, and a frank and delicate smile – there was a light in her face. Later, reading Homer, I felt that Pallas Athene must have looked like her.”

Still from the documentary Les voyages extraordinaires d’Ella Maillart

Hermine was “Miette” and Ella was “Kini”. This early pash blossomed into lifelong friendship. Surviving photos show a kind of 1920s sailor-suited lesbian chic – about which a new documentary on Maillart remains fairly circumspect. Ella played hockey, sailed, rowed and skied at a time when many sports clubs denied entry to women.

Ella Maillart (with pipe) on board her yacht.

She went on to represent Switzerland on the sailing team at the Paris Olympic Games of 1924 and to become one of those mythical between-the-wars travellers, a field dominated by British gentlemen of a certain stamp, such as Peter Fleming, whom she met and befriended in Sinkiang or Chinese Turkistan in 1935. They too became lifelong friends. She met the widow of American writer Jack London, and through that contact met Madame Tolstoy in Russia. She had a well-adjusted view of Europe’s position in the world: “Europe is a little peninsula of Central Asia.”

Traveller in furs, Peter Fleming, photographed by Ella Maillart in China, 1934

A new documentary about her life and travels, Les voyages extraordinaires d’Ella Maillart, is showing in French cinemas. I caught up with it recently in the Odeon Cinema in Morges near Lausanne, where it was screened as part of the book festival Le livre sur les quais. I was entranced from beginning to end, especially by Maillart’s photos of an Asia that has disappeared.

Director Raphaël Blanc makes wonderful use of the Maillart archive at the Élysée museum of photography in Lausanne. She was an accomplished photographer, an early user of a Leica III (a Leica F), with a good eye and an engaging manner with her subjects. That talent for friendship stood her in good stead. Peter Fleming (brother of the more famous Ian) described the advantage of the Leica:

… a large proportion of the photographs we took were taken from the saddle; and it made a lot of difference being able to hold your horse in with one hand while you focused the camera with the other.

The Golden Temple, Amritsar, India, photograph by Ella Maillart

Journalism and book publication paid for Maillart’s road trips. She wrote for Le petit parisien and other magazines of the day, and illustrated her own travel books. The film cuts between her still photographs, archival footage from the 1920s and ’30s, TV interviews with Maillart dating from the 1970s as well as contemporary interviews with people who knew her.

The documentary follows Daniel Girardin, art historian and curator of the Élysée museum, who rides and walks in Maillart’s footsteps across Central Asia. These travels are shot by Raphaël Blanc using high definition drone photography to capture the wide karst and mountain landscape of Kyrgistan and Afghanistan, the thousand year-old horse market of Karakol and scenes of transhumance that seem timeless. Maillart’s extraordinary travels, as well as her spiritual quest during the Second World War in India, are handled without too much hokus-pokus.

Ella Maillart’s luggage on the airfield, Samarkand, Ouzbekistan, URSS. 1932

In 1938 she teamed up with Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach and the two of them headed off in a Ford to revisit Afghanistan. Schwarzenbach was a troubled soul and addicted to morphine. The two travellers eventually parted ways. Ella’s account of their journey under the shadow of war, written after Schwarzenbach’s death, has wonderful photos of the androgynous Schwarzenbach as well as the enormous Buddha statues of Bamiyan, dating from the 4th and 5th centuries CE.

The Bamiyan Buddha, August 1939, photo by Annemarie Schwarzenbach

They stood in the cliff-face niches of limestone from which they had been carved, looking out over the valley in the Hazarajat region of central Afghanistan for a millennium and a half. The Taliban dynamited them in 2001. Switzerland and Japan have pledged to reconstruct them.

Ella Maillart photo of the royal palace, Balaju, 1961

Maillart’s books and her style have dated a bit, and she was aware of her limitations as a writer. Her fellow traveller Nicholas Bouvier said of her: “I much prefer real travellers who write to writers who travel.” It’s an astute distinction.

Ella Maillart’s itineraries, courtesy of Zoé publications, 2013

Maillart retreated after the war for part of each year to the village of Chandolin, high in Switzerland’s Valais, where she kept a chalet, her books and her spiritual equilibrium. Her interest in eastern mysticism and religion was ahead of its time in the West. With this new documentary, its stunning photography and high definition aerial shots of Central Asia, perhaps more people will get to know of Maillart’s exploits and her groundbreaking life.

Philippe Vermès portrait of Ella Maillart

The tiny Ella Maillart museum at Chandolin in the Valais

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