Les rencontres d’Arles (2): Bailey’s Stardust

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NPG P952; Mick Jagger by David Bailey

David Bailey’s show at the église Sainte-Anne is on tour from The Portrait Gallery in London. It’s a retrospective – a Greatest Hits if you like – titled Bailey’s Stardust. There is a lifetime’s worth of mug-shots of the famous in the pop, rock and art worlds, with a concentration of sixties stars running through it like the Milky Way. The Mod Squad, Celebs, as we’ve come to know and grow up with them. Like dowager aunts they get tedious at the end, they repeat themselves. I like the French term for this class: le vedettariate. They don’t age well – not many of us do – and Bailey’s look back often makes that point.

The show is arranged around the sides of the deconsecrated church, in alcoves that resemble side chapels. The hanging works. Photos of different sizes are grouped by theme. You get the feeling as you move from the famous photographers to the famous Stones, on round the side altars – East Enders, media celebrities, fashionistas, more Brit Pop, the inevitable Mandela – that you’re doing the stations of the modern cross, with Mick below as Veronica Wiping the Face of Jesus.

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Here are the apostles – Stones, Beatles and Co.  – with four or five miracle albums to their names, a decade in the limelight, and Great British Artist thereafter. Perhaps that’s the most we can hope for. Here’s the Garden of Gethsemane – London’s East End. There’s Vivienne Westwood – Jesus Meets his Mother.

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I liked the big prints of London’s East End decline, East End Coronation tat. There’s one portrait of a drinker with full lips, for once not pouting at the camera, and holding aloft a pint glass of beer. (Did people have fuller lips in the sixties or were they just more leery?) The snot-rag (no other word for it) round his neck is pure Dickensian. That East End lived on to the end of the Chatterly ban, kept alive, so to speak, by the Kray brothers (here too in this goons’ gallery) and rationing. The Kray brothers look suitably thuggish, clean-cut wide boys who could almost be on television in our age, walking us through the Blitzed ruins or teaching us how to make bubble and squeak.

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Are the Kray Brothers a band? A firm of accountants? A criminal consortium? One of my favourite lines from Dylan is: “Steal a little and they put you in jail, steal a lot and they make you king.” It makes renewed sense now after the financial crisis, and puts a bit of larceny and the Great British Train Robbery in the shade. The East End got tarted up, the kings – high finance – moved in. Iain Sinclair has chronicled this bring and buy of high finance in the eighties and nineties. I kept thinking about gentrification while walking around this show.

Who ever knew that Yoko Ono had good legs? – not the Japanese strong card, by and large. The rest of her I could take or leave, but here they are sheer for all to see.

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Patti Smith is no stranger to celebrity photographers. Her trademark dishevelled hair, wanton-waifish looks and crucifix in the cleavage grow tired on me. Her Horses was one of the wake-up albums of the summer of punk, 1977 – I took it to the Sahara desert and played it to the bedouin. The triteness of the iconography in some of the photos began to wear. Rock celebs begin to look like attitudinising saints showing off stigmata on a rococo ceiling.

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The portrait of Dylan seems nonplussed. Like the Queen (Her Majesty is missing from the show but we get Queen instead.) he always looks bigger, more imposing than he actually is. Short people do that – they muscle up to the camera. Legs splayed, Davy Crockett jacket, cowboy-outlaw costuming, piercing eyes – 1986. About the time of Desire, Durango, all that south of the border nonsense. When American rock stars reach for roots it’s usually some form of cowboy myth. When Londoners do it you get the Kray twins. The skin on the right hand side of his face has already gone parchment-like.

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Alice Cooper with her snake and what looks like a caesarian scar on a very hairy mid-riff. Who ever knew that Andy Warhol had such a porous nose and pitted skin? Smallpox in that Andrej Varhola Pittsburg childhood. Or that the Rolling Stones are so phenomenally ugly? There seems to be always some feature not quite in proportion, pouting at you.

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Bailey has taken such cliches of them – anything to avoid the word iconic – we forget the wrinkly futures of us all. But there is a good deal of wrinkly here nonetheless, to the point where I thought the human animal is not a pretty sight. Vivienne Westwood – Ho! -, Marianne Faithful et al. Frights the lot of them! Frights in fancy threads.

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Models with rubber dollies. Models looking sultry. Pouting models. The glam look of old Roxy album covers. The English ageing female seems to turn into a cross between Matron and a dominatrix in a Soho doorway.

On the high altar are six almost life-size nudes from 2004, arranged where the choir stalls would be. Ninette Finch, Bernd Kho, Belinda Selby, assorted actors, media people and models.  Three memento mori from 2009 – a skull with blue roses, a skull with some sort of thistle, a skull with gourds – almost had me genuflecting and crossing myself.

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This is Bailey being profound. While you could say that the photographer is making a comment about the transience of all things – with no resurrection in sight – it struck me as mostly album covers and fashion shoots for the glossies done large.

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Bailey prefers the pure white background and a close view, tattoos, piercings and all. We came to the chapel of the fashion designers – Ecce Homo – Karl Lagerfeld’s pre-Ludwig look, captured in front of his French château. John Galiano, half flying through the air, looks like a cross between a falling angel and a pirate from Penzance. Cecil Beaton mincing again, cosying up to the beautiful Rudolf Nureyev in 1965.

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David Bailey is the Cecil Beaton of our age. Beaton did the bright young things and the royals, the shits in the shuttered châteaux – Willy Maugham, the Duke and Duchess, Noel Coward. The comparison highlights the uncertain status of this kind of celebrity photography. Would you look at them twice if they weren’t famous? Or dead famous?

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These are the goons. This is our goon show. Assorted minstrels at the court of Elizabeth. Sundry nancy boys in the high-end rag trade, thread merchants. Scene shifters. Already the bloom is off them. The women look as though they’ve tagged along an eternity. They’re past their first youth. They have the pouty attitudinising, the puckered lips of adolescents who know what’s what, and how much it costs. The lines are on their faces as they sing of small foreign wars and falling stars. They crooned and shot and painted their way out of rationing into the bunga-bunga years, the long decades of post-war peace in our time. Sic transit gloria mundi.

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Les rencontres d’Arles (1)

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Every year Arles buzzes with photo people of all stripes. Its festival runs throughout the summer but the week of 7-13 July sees a concentration of openings, parties and people in town. During a quick walk through the streets last night I was able to catch some striking work by the Montpellier-based artist who goes by the letters TTY, otherwise known as Thierry Art. He works in what looks like porcelain but may only be highly polished epoxy-resin, and photography. He won the Taipei International Digital Content Award in 2012. My personal view is that he needs to get a name with resonance. The work speaks for itself. It’s on show at Le magazin de jouets.

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The Little Models: Tout ce qui naît tend à mourir, TTY photography.

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Eternal Heads 3/4, TTY photography.

Then round the corner at Voices Off, 3 rue du Séminaire, William Ropp was exhibiting a range of his eery portraits. His book of haunting images Memoires rȇvées d’Afriques has just been launched. Ropp himself was there on the shop floor and there was a steady stream of visitors. Ropp seems to specialise in capturing enlarged or slightly astigmatic eyes, which reminded me of the early portraits of Lucian Freud. Anyway, I liked them. He goes for deep shadows and long exposures. Ropp is French and based in Nancy

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from his Mali series, William Ropp

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William Ropp

Then it was off down to Actes Sud bookshop to check out the times for today’s showing of the John Maloof and Charlie Siskel documentary on the new York street photographer, Vivian Maier.

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Self-portrait, 1954, Vivian Maier

Maier was a great discovery for me last year and I was happy to snag the last copy of the PowerHouse Books monograph on her, Vivian Maier: Street Photographer. The kind bookshop assistant retrieved it from the window. More on Arles, its new Van Gogh museum/archive and on Vivian Maier tomorrow.

 

 

 

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Albert Wainwright 1898 – 1943

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It was Callum James over at Front Free Endpaper who sparked my interest in the work of Albert Wainwright. Since then I’ve become a fan, and acquired a small portfolio of his travel sketches and watercolours.

Wainwright was born in 1898 in Castleford, West Yorkshire, and entered Leeds School of Art in 1915. A fellow pupil at Castleford School was sculptor Henry Moore. Both benefited from the support of the same encouraging art teacher, Alice Gostick. Wainwright was an excellent draughtsman, equally at home with book illustration, set design and costuming for the stage. He designed sets and costumes for the Leeds Art Theatre, for school plays at Castleford and for his own plays.

Albert Wainwright, High Barbaree

Albert Wainwright, ink drawing for High Barbaree

Albert Wainwright, ink drawing for Ching-a-Ling

Albert Wainwright, ink drawing for Ching-a-Ling

He travelled to Germany frequently throughout the twenties and thirties, sometimes with school groups, sometimes unencumbered. His travels, his knowledge of German and German literature, recall a more outward-looking Britain since declined to monolingualism. His sketchbooks constitute a sharply observed, highly coloured record of those inter-war decades, when the Wandervogel movement was at its height.

Albert Wainwright, No Comedy

Albert Wainwright, No Time for Comedy

Wainwright’s ink line is playful, quick, his sense of colour fauvist and theatrical. There’s a good deal of art deco in the way he mixes illustration, drama and design. His travel sketches follow the Rhine, often done quickly on boats or from elevated viewpoints. They remind us of another, more innocent Germany.

Albert Wainwright, München

Albert Wainwright, Münchener Knaben

Nick Elm and Callum James have produced a fine monograph about Wainwright and his relationship with Otto Jübermann, a German boy he fell in love with while staying as a guest of his parents in 1927. Albert brought Otto back to England on a summer visit. Otto is the subject of many watercolours and sketches dating from the last few years of the twenties. The Portrait of Otto on the cover below is held by the Wolfsonian in Florida.

Albert & Otto, Callum James Books, 2013

Albert & Otto, Callum James Books, 2013

The ink and wash sketch titled ‘Haus Jübermann’ below shows a bedroom, two chaste single beds with red coverlets, a sheepskin on the floor. All very rustic and gemütlich. Albert stayed at the Jübermann family home, in Veerssen near Uelzen, at least three times. He sketched the architecture, forests, sport activity and domestic scenes around him in rural Saxony.

Albert Wainwright, Haus Jübermann

Albert Wainwright, Haus Jübermann

Another sketch of the Jübermann home shows a one-storey timber-framed house with tiled roof and tall, small-paned windows – not a peasant house, more well-to-do as they say up north. Wainwright’s sketches of public buildings in Uelzen borrow somewhat from the style of German postcards, themselves renderings from period photos.

Altes Giebelhaus, Gudelstrasee, Uelzen

Altes Giebelhaus, Gudelstrasee, Uelzen

On later visits Wainwright travelled south to Munich and into Spain and Italy. Though there is no evidence that he ever crossed their tracks, he was part of that movement of English men – Auden, Isherwood and Spender – attracted by Weimar decadence and a lingering glance on the Ku’damm. The young form was never far from his gaze.

Albert Wainwright, Square Rig

Albert Wainwright, Square Rig

He adorned his sketchbooks with quotations from German poetry and song. The inscription below is from Heinrich Heine, perhaps reflecting the thoughts of the young man drinking tea under the flag at the ship’s prow and staring at the youth by the deck rail:

Ich weiß nicht, was soll es bedeuten,
Daß ich so traurig bin,
Ein Märchen aus uralten Zeiten,
Das kommt mir nicht aus dem Sinn.

I cannot determine the meaning
Of sorrow that fills my breast:
A fable of old, through it streaming,
Allows my mind no rest.

Albert Wainwright, Rheinreise

Albert Wainwright, Rheinreise

 

Albert Wainwright, Rhoendorf am Rhein

Albert Wainwright, Rhoendorf am Rhein

As Europe moved towards war, Wainwright’s travels were curtailed. He kept a cottage and studio at Robin Hoods Bay, Yorkshire. His finished work has an elegance sometimes missing from the sketches. He was remarkably bold and sensual with the male form. Rucked shorts, clinging uniforms and a dishevelled lankiness are his trademarks. But in the portrait of Peter Wilkinson below there is a wonderful economy of means. As my old art teacher, Sister Trea, used to say: the spaces left empty are as important as the spaces filled.

Albert Wainwright, Portrait of Peter

Albert Wainwright, Portrait of Peter Wilkinson, 1923

Wainwright clearly had been looking at more than the local Lederhosen on his trips through Germany. The Viennese Secessionists are a fruitful influence – Alphonse Mucha and Gustav Klimt, especially the Klimt of the square Attersee paintings of water and foliage. But in his approach to colour and the camber of a bum he anticipates that other northern boy who fell in love with the sun and a bigger splash – David Hockney.

Albert Wainwright, The Blue Boy

Albert Wainwright, The Blue Boy

In September 2013 the Hepworth Wakefield hosted an exhibition of Wainwright paintings and sketchbooks, drawing attention to the subtle bright quality of his work and to his neglected reputation. It was the first exhibition of his work in thirty years.

Wainwright died young, of meningitis, age 45 in 1943. Though retiring and unassuming, had he lived in our age he might not have survived its prurient puritanism. His colour and line have made it through nonetheless, a record of his Wanderjahre and his longing. His work deserves to be better known.

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Albert Wainwright, Bavarian costumes

Albert Wainwright, Bavarian costumes

 

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